You don't need to grind more away to make it possible to remove the wheel - it's a vertical dropout - your wheel will simply drop out when you release the axle and push the wheel that 1/4" forward.

Ah yes. I have some MOP's - old yellow label, two years old. One has 1/2" of hob in from doing a 180 bunnyhop while i was drunk. Never again.

Luckily a shop here has a bunch NOS. So I picked them up again. The dark annodized is sure pretty.

Do they not make them anymore or something? I picked up mine on eBay for cheap, something like $70 for the pair. If I were building another set of wheels, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another pair for any application. I still smile when I look at them, a year later.

The problem is that to get 32:16, I have to extend the slot in the dropout about 1/4" towards the front of the bike, so when the chain's on, the wheel is held in place at the front of the slot by the chain. (now that I think about it, even to get the wheel in, I'd need to make the slot longer, or I'd end up having to break the chain, put the wheel in, then rejoin the chain around the wheel because there's no slack to mount the chain).

Am I missing something here? Is there some other way to get an in-tension chain off without moving the wheel? I could remove more metal towards the back of the dropout until it all matches up, but I'd end up having to remove a lot more metal that way.

I am not sure, but you are going from 36/18 to 36/16, right? So you will loose 2 teeth in total. This means, your wheel will move a bit backwards from its current position.

I think he is thinking about shortening the chain.

the new Mavic OPs are ****. Taiwanese garbage. They retail for $90.

I got some Hard Annodized 36 holes coming shortly. Plan on building them to low-flange phils for the casati's street set up.

lol

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...s/newww040.jpg

my first fixed gear.
its soo fast
im pretty sure im in love.

thats a pretty rad frame. get some shorter bolts and lose the outer chainring, though.

False and false. I paid $65 for mine, and they're ****in' burly.

69 here
and i love them. ride them like i hate them. including waking in the back of an ambulance. and it still is between the stays.

that sure cleaned up nice! I almost bought one of those frames for my first conversion, but I got outbid (fing ebay).

I love my open pro's. My LBS said if I need to replace them, they would charge my like $55. I think thats a long shot off from $90.

Nice. Its fun, ain't it!

Right on.

Yeah... but you live in paradise!

reference please.

Ok I don't have a reference. It's what my shop told me. They've switched manufacturing to an "asian" country and upped the price for the NEW hoops x 2...

We just went to order some and they were like "wtf? why are they retailing at $90 a unit?"

As I said. the NEW ones are retailing for 2x that. Don't know why, but they are.

yah im really happy about it, i got the frame for free which is amazing.

can anyone help with my chainline? like i know if i get short bolts i can take the big ring off, but if i get different cranks later on will my chainline line up? because it only lines up right now on the inner rings?

cranks aren't as important for chainline as the bottom bracket. you can get a proper chainline with just about any crankset as long as you have the right bb. so be prepared to shell out for both.

the fuji looks good, but i can't understand how you go fast. the bars are a few inches above the saddle. how bent are your legs when your cranks are at 12 and 6? there should be a slight bend at 6 o'clock. maybe you should try raising the saddle/lowering the stem?

He's built like an ape. MAYBE, he is a bicycle riding gorilla!

yeh thats after i got back from my first ride, i raised the saddle like 2 inches after i got back. yupyup

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...h/mybike-1.jpg
Just put it together, sorry the picture is iffy, I'll get better ones later.
Should be rolling Dura Ace to Open Pros soon.