Also about to be shopping around for racks and fenders. I've been wanting to build a winter beater/commuter.

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/bik/2792385547.html

The guy is practically a neighbor. I can probably get him to go lower. Would it be worth it? The thing felt like it fit me great.

For my first FG should I buy the Mercier Kilo TT or WT OR should I go with a Windsor Clockwork or The Hour?

I've been reading all over trying to get a definitive answer and I can't seem to get an answer as to which one's a better choice.

I'll be using my bike to commute to and from work around 30 miles round trip plus wherever else I plan on going.

What are your thoughts amigos

-djsfix

Obligatory Kilo TT.

I'd go Stripper.

i have a windsor "the hour" ridden over 1500 miles still going strong. replaced the pedals and recently the wheelset. also i added a front break. but i did these upgrades gradually over a couple months. my friend got a kilo tt its pretty decent too.

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...ttachment.html ?

now to figure out my size for the clamps and fenders

I literally have 0experience with putting my own fenders on. do I just go off what tire clearance my frame has?

Seems a bit too high. for $150 you could probably grab something nicer with a bit of patience

Go with the largest tire size you plan to run, if you're going for steez. I run a 32 in the back of my townie, and the 37mm smooth VO fenders hug the lines of the tire nicely, while still allowing plenty of room for the errant rock or stick. The Planet Bike fenders on my IRO are 35mm, and clearance is tight enough that if they get knocked just a hair out of alignment, front and rear will rub. I spend way too much time smacking them around while I'm on the road.

Sadly, my St0P Cycles frame does not have any water bottle mounts. I have a seatpost mount, but it would be much nicer to have easier access to the water bottle.

So... Should I:

Top cap mounted bottle holder:

http://www.universalcycles.com/image...dium/34540.jpg

($9 at Universal Cycles)

or perhaps:

http://www.minourausa.com/_src/sc3100/bh60_blank.jpg

($8 at REI, tho I am not entirely sure if it will fit over 31.8 bars)

Maybe play it safe and just go with these:

http://www.universalcycles.com/image...dium/37340.jpg

($9 for the mounts, I happen to have a spare cage that I could use)

Or.... Perhaps someone has a better idea for a good bottle mount for the bike?

http://www.pedalroom.com/p/st0p-cycles-eta-3712_17.jpg

Problem Solvers Clamp-On Water Bottle Mount: 25.4-31.8mm

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=41120
http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/pub...Q0X9WvMTl1EbiY

I would use the zip tie things. Easy to install, easy to remove, and cheeeeep.

Handlebar bag with a pocket for a bottle?

I need panniers now.

These work really well.

http://www.universalcycles.com/image...dium/44338.jpg

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=44338

Or if you have a really reliable shop in your area and are willing to pay the $$$, they can put in bottle cage mounts on the down tube.

Yeah, they just drill the frame and install threaded rivets. I did it to my Schwinn

I am not opposed to having them tap it out... but if I do any edits to the frame, I'd also want to add disc tabs, and re-space the rear to 135, and... Then I'd have to repaint the frame... And as much as I really like this frame, I don't think it's worth THAT much work.

@striknein: I'd totally rock ANOTHER bag (already hunting for a front pannier rack and then the bags to follow) but I don't NEED another bag. That being said, I have cross levers, so having any bags would negate the use of them.

@tejano: Do the bottles sway at all, or is there enough ability to get the velcro tight enough to secure them?

They are amazingly secure. I've ridden hundreds of miles on rough roads and they haven't budged. The base is a soft rubber-like material that conforms to the shape (diameter) of the frame tube and gets sticky when clamped with the velcro so it won't slip at all. The velcro goes all the way around the bottom and you trim it to the proper length based on the size of the tube. It won't work with pointy aero frame tubing, though. No good for my VISP or Leader 721tr. I'm still going to need my Camelbak for those bikes. The nice thing is that I can position the cages exactly where I want them. With mounting boses, once they're put on, you can't change them.

I typically charge 10-15 bucks.

The Two Fish bottle mounts that TT suggested are awesome. I used them quite a few times on my Leader 725.

It seems as though the Kagero is still on sale. With a deep v wheel set the cost is just over $830 shipped, but I don't know how much it will cost to drill the fork for a brake. Should I bite, or grab the Vigorelli that is already drilled for a brake, but will miss out on the wheel set?

as tempting as combo deals and saving a $ here and there is -- I would get whatever frame you want more and not let the wheelset factor into your decision. we're talking $550-$600 framesets here.

The Kagero fork is drilled for a brake, it's just plugged.

Really? On your site plus many others, it specifically states it's not drilled for a brake...

looks like you can see the plug job if you gander at the fork up front. compare it to the s works which is actually not drilled
drilled but plugged?
http://27.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lt...1ytho1_500.png
not drilled
http://i43.tinypic.com/11qu8er.png

It's the same on the Vigorelli. Back of the fork is open, front is plugged with a 'target' for a quick drilling. It's a simple process to add to either frame.

Scrod can confirm this, but I believe his site is refering to the frame's seatstay bridge not being drilled for a brake.