He's letting you work on his several thousand dollar world class frame?

smart guy.

i have omniums on my kilo tt, with a team sram bb. I'm installing the stock truvativ (dark Grey round) bb on a bt edge. The same crank arms from my kilo that fit, do not fit on the bt edge. The spindle is too long, I bottom out the spline on nds and the cranks can slide a good 5-10mm with a real audible slap. I know spacers aren't supposed to be used. My question is, why does the cranks fit on the kilo. With a 68mm bbshell and doesn't fit on btedge. (68mm bbshell) also, does anyone know what I can do? My neighbor had same issue with stock bb and cinelli mash. He used a 1.5mm spacer on nds. And because of the nds arm rubbing on bearing seat he blew the bearings to crap. (should i cut my losses nd get sram team bb)

Hee installed the bb im tryna figure what's wrong, do you know scrod

Sorry about the werid Grammar. And reposts. I'm using a new and the school wifi is wonky

Dude, I have no idea. Are there no bike shops where you live?

There is, imma go take him after class. But have you ever had of omnium being too long to fit

Sizing issues are a common problem with omniums. Just take it to a LBS.

What are you even talking about?

The known problem with Omniums is clearance, not sizing. He's talking about something altogether different, which none of us understand.

This is what I imagine on this page.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=304622

Does anybody speak simlish?

Seriously.

Speaking of omniums, i'm thinking of picking up a 165 for my leader 735, am I gonna run into clearance/sizing issues?

Edit -- oh yeah, I'll be mostly running a 48 on it, maybe a 50 if I want to be ambitious.

I thought he was having clearance problems. My bad.

I'm thinking that evil is just having trouble tightening the cranks on all the way and thinks that the splines bottomed out. Lots of people have this problem and then think that they need a spacer.

That may be a waste of time in this case.

For me, it usually is in any case.

I think the same thing. Omniums are weird.

fixed.

It's probably really difficult to properly torque a bottom bracket when you only weigh 85 pounds.

I would not be working on a bike of that caliber (or any bike for that matter) without a torque wrench. 40nm feels like a **** load of torque if you don't have confirmation.

Nag, stop being so quotable.

Lol it's an issue I have.
But really I wasn't entirely trying to be funny. I'm a big ass dude and it isn't the easiest task to drop that kind of torque. It would be a lot harder if I was tiny.

Bet money he was using a little hex wrench too. Ain't no way he's torquing enough with the deck stacked that much against him.

long shot, but ive got a reynolds 531 ronkit frame from the 70s with 120mm rear spacing, and im ordering a wheelset with a formula high flange rear hub spaced at 120 also. using a generic crankset like this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/290799865183?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
i know the same exact one is under several different brand names, same with the formula hubs.

im not trying to play musical bb spindles too much, based off what little info i can give you, what do you think a good bb spindle length to start with would be? trying to just have my chainline real straight. gonna be using a 52t ring. should i just use the exact length spindle as the one it came with? it used to be a ten speed but a lot of the parts had been swapped out for ****tier ones or been mistreated over the years, so im just going to convert it. i know this is a really ******** question to ask but i figured maybe randomly from experiencing a similar situation you might know.

Those SHUN cranksets use a 103mm JIS spindle for a 42mm(ish) chainline.

cool, im probably going to use a tange or shimano JIS taper cartridge/sealed BB. so how do i know the chainline will be straight if i grip on a 103? the 120 formula flip/flop hub fits right into my rear dropouts, so i dont have the ability to use spacers to get the chainline straight.. but thats probably good cause i dont want my wheel dished all weird. im pretty new to all this stuff, sorry if i ask ******** questions. are you saying that the formula track hubs are for 42mm chainlines? also idk if a 52 ring would bang the frame or not on a 103 spindle. im gonna go take a rough measurement of the bb spindle that came with it.

Because I just told you.

You're drastically overthinking this and would never need to do such a thing if you use the correct BB.

Yes, as most track hubs are.

If it hits the frame and you use a longer spindle to overcome this, your chainline will be off and there's no way around it. Use the right BB and a smaller chainring.

Again, you need to use the spindle length appropriate for whatever new crankset you're using. What's in there now doesn't matter at all.

Also - your run-on post made my head spin. Capital letters, line breaks and paragraphs exist for a reason.

My lbs said they think that only a phil wood cog will would work on Phil hubs.. seems ********, no?

That's crap. You need to use an Italian-threaded lockring (Phil, Campy or Miche) but any English-threaded cog will work. The only thing I would advise against is using an EAI cog because they are really thick and your lockring may not have enough threads to engage properly. Some people have done it and the universe didn't implode but I wouldn't risk it on such a pricey hub.

thats more along the lines of what he said now that i think about it, because i currently have EAI cog. Think i'll go with a phil cog and get it over with.

If you want a 17t, I know a guy who is selling a very slightly used one for a great price. ;)

whats your take on: H+Son's EERO? ...& have you heard of anyone using brakes on them???

Weight: 790 grams
Material: 6061 Alloy
Height: 43.33333 mm
Size: 700c
Drillings: 32 36 48
Colors: Subject to change due to NASDAQ fluctuations and the RMB's appreciation.
Joint: Welded
ERD: 555 mm

Eero is a response to the demand for a stronger rim. With a similar profile to Formation Face, Eero is wider, slightly higher and significantly heavier. The new design will accommodate wider tires and withstand much more abuse.

The EERO was designed for trick riding and are very heavy. Like Formation Face rims, you can't use a brake on them without damaging the sidewalls.

If you want deep H+Son rims but want to use brakes, get SL42s.