nice, i started doing that after i noticed them doing a little winding glad to know i wasnt doing something stupid

should i be relieving tension afterwards as if its a new wheel or is that not necessary?

Right on. Any spokes you're working on will need to be relieved of stress to straighten out any wind up that has happened while truing the wheel but nothing major.

These have worked perfect for me:
http://www.retro-gression.com/produc...track-wheelset

Hey Scrod, aside from weight difference, Is there any upsides to the Kmc 710 or the SL version. some people say the SL will break quicker by ill be using it for Singlespeed application. FWIW I have the 710 available now and would have to order the SL version if I went with that one.

I can't speak for "some people" but I've never broken a 710-SL.

i got some gore sealed cables, but it appears that the derailleur housing is fatter than the old jagwire stuff i was using and the housing ferrule won't fit in my downtube cable adjuster. what to do?

also does there even exist a monstrosity that can break a 710sl?

Use it without the ferrule.

Dannihilator claims to have broken a KMC Devil (I honestly don't know how that guy breaks/damages so much stuff), so anything is possible.

I bet he has guads like Ullrich

yea, right??? that's what i thought.

someone told me i can't do that cuz the strands or whatever of the housing will start to pull through the adjuster hole... but if there's barely enough room for the sealed cable liner to fit through the adjuster hole, where da hecks are the housing strands gonna go?

my fuji has a couple ends of cable with no ferrules cuz its built into the levers, havent noticed any ill effects in about 1k miles

Yeah, they do make them in silver with a 24mm clamp, I think. I suppose I could shim them to fit the 22.2mm bar.

That's what I've always done. A small piece of a rubber reflector shim always does the trick.

Word. I may even have some 23.8-to-22.2 aluminum shims from VO thumb shifters. Problem solved!

Whoops, forgot about your clamp size issue. The stupid thing is I bought a set of them for a build (whenever I get around to it) with which I'll have the same issue and just completely spaced.

This is more of an "I need an experienced opinion" rather than an actual question.. But anyway,

I have an old Bianchi Vittoria road bike that I love, I could fairly easily convert it to fixed or even SS for not a lot of money... But part of me wants to just keep it how it is and get an entirely new fixed/ss. Which is where my main dilemma comes in..

This bike (http://www.retro-gression.com/produc...-complete-bike) has been my dream bike for quite a while now, but it's pretty much out of my price range by a substantial amount of money. So I started looking for a cheaper option with similar geometry. My question is, do you think this complete aluminum EighthInch bike is worth the $550? http://eighthinch.com/products/frame...complete-bike/ I really like the convenience of getting everything at once rather than doing a prolonged build like I've done on other bikes.

That EighthInch complete really isn't bad for the money. The big difference is in the frameset.

Also, in before someone tells you to buy a Kilo TT.

aluminum fork tho.

Thanks Scrod. And I really don't want a TT. Is the aluminum fork really that much of an issue? I know carbon would obviously be better...

Aluminum forks are very harsh on the street, especially cheap aluminum.

Harsh enough that I should look at other options? Down the road I could probably buy a carbon fork, or maybe even get one used. Even with a carbon fork I'm assuming it will be cheaper than the Leader.

Whats the best way to make sure my chain is tight while I'm attaching my rear wheel? do i just pull the rear wheel back while im turning the nuts to lock it in place? My chain fell off today while i was riding and i nearly at cement.

What company makes the best axle nuts that will hold up the longest? My shop sells generic no name ones for $4. I figure I can do a lot better than that just buying them online.

An axle nut with a floating washer is an axle nut with a floating washer. If you want to get fancy, buy Dura Ace nuts.

Adjusting chain tension isn't rocket science. It helps to tighten the non-drive side first to keep the wheel from creeping forward. Also, remember that a little slack is a good thing.

Best method: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ning-technique

The best way is by having these: http://www.retro-gression.com/produc...ain-tensioners

That way, you wouldn't need to pull back on the wheel and tension by trial and error. They're great for making micro adjustments.

Great, I'm definitely looking at chain tensioners from MKS, and I can never get my chain to have no slack so its loose, but I dont want it as loose as i had it earlier today when it came off

run a biopace then you can have two different chain tensions with a turn of the crank!