I have no idea what you think will look good and your hands will find comfortable. I'd probably go with grips over tape.

Wrong thread.

We do carry Yoshidas, they're just not up on the site.

..

What the hell does that even mean?

Idk how to explain.. the thinnest cog available, that will give me the least amount of chain line?

The chainline measurement my cog has isn't even something I think about. Ever. Why are you still stressing yourself out over it?

Stop being a ninny and ride your ****ing bike.

Scrod,

What brand of bags do you use to haul **** around (if you do use any)? Be it messenger, backpack, panniers. As inspired by the Chrome bags post on the Retrogression forums.

Also, do you use gloves for longer rides? If so, what short-finger pair do you prefer?

Awesome, I was leaning to that side. Any worries with the sidewall? I ride single speed. Also for someone who weighs 190 and commutes ALOT in ****ty, pothole infested Cleveland, what would be the best way to lace them and how many spokes for the wheels. Sorry for all the questions all knowing Scrodzilla

The finish will wear off after a while but the sidewalls were designed to withstand brake wear so there's no worries there. I would stick with 32h laced 3X.

I have a Seagull but it's huge so I don't use it very often. I usually don't carry a bag when I ride and it's a whopping 0.4 mile "commute" from my house to the shop) but when I'm out doing a few errands and whatnot, I typically just use one of my Timbuk2 bags, which have all been modified in one way or another. I just got an all black Chrome Citizen that I am in love with so that may change.

I hate wearing gloves.

hey scrod,

i'm looking for a new fork.

specs:

1 1/8
700c
carbon (carbon steerer not necessary)
brake hole (for when it's not on the track)
35ish mm rake

i just don't feel like shelling out "wound up" money.

The Leader I06TR has all those things.

boom! nice. thanks. bookmarked

Hey Scrod, I've got my new hub and the rim I'll be putting it in, I've got the spokes and nipples, I've even tried putting them all close to each other, but they still won't build themselves into a wheel. What am I doing wrong?

I don't understand what you mean.

I was funning with you mate, suggesting the wheel isn't building itself. An appropriate response would have been along the lines of "when a daddy rim meets a mummy hub and they really like each other ..." or, more pragmatically, "the bloody wheel won't build itself, YOU have to do something ".

On a serious note, I was going to do it on Sunday but the ruddy MG has its hand in the air for urgent maintenance AGAIN! Speaking of building the wheel, I'll be using the Park Tools tension guage because I lack the experience to judge things by feel as yet. Any thoughts on what tension to aim for? Or just go for Park's recommendation for 14g spokes.

Just realised that my tongue in cheek question wasn't as daft as some of the serious ones you get :crash:

I still have the stock crankset on my Windsor The Hour. The majority of the chainring bolts don't actually tighten to snug, but tighten to spinning (not quite free) on the crank spiders. This is not ideal. So, question: would buying a new set of chainring bolts possibly solve this, as they're the cheapest link or would I be more likely to solve the problem by buying a crankset that is not crap?

Are you using a chainring spanner to hold the back of the bolts? If not, that's your problem.

I bought a chainring spanner for this reason. The bolts are actually bottomed out.

Scrod,

Sorry to change topics, and post a completely random question--but do you know what happened to IRO cycles? I currently have 2 Mark V frames (one older tear drop, one newer) which I've been riding forever. I was looking to replace the older one recently, and have kind of realized that IRO has had no website activity at all lately.

Tried shooting them an email through their website's contact form, and that seems down too.

Just curious as to whether or not Tony and IRO decided to call it quits..

cheers.

There have been a few threads here where this has been talked about but I honestly have no idea what the real story is.

Scrod, do you enjoy playing video games?

A little but I don't own a gaming system or anything. My jam is Big Buck Hunter HD at the local arcade.

Hey Man--you ever see the Avid Speed Dial 7s setup with a short pull caliper brake?

I just ordered these and assumed they were adjustable, but someone is now telling me they aren't.

http://www.jensonusa.com/Avid-Speed-Dial-7-Levers

setup with SRAM Apex brake set.

nope

maybeitsjustyou

Maybe?

So.....whatupwiththat. I just want to know whether to waste the 10 bucks on trying new bolts.

Apologies to Scrod for answering in his thread, but you might try finding some washers to fit between the inner bolts and the inside of the crank arm spider. Buying new bolts is only going to help if they are shorter than ones you already have. Also, you probably have a spanner like the one on the left of the pic, which is hanging up on the bolt. I have an old Campy spanner that is open as shown on the right that I can use in situations where the bolt is too long. Better quality cranks like the Sugino 75 have recesses on the inside of the crank spiders for the bolt shoulders that let you use bolts with serrations that eliminate the need to use a spanner.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=324663