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Scrod,
What are your thoughts on the Selle Italia Turbo Reissue saddle? I saw on pedalroom that you have one on at least one of your bikes and was hoping I could get some insight on how you liked it. |
Originally Posted by highonpez
(Post 15766452)
So.....whatupwiththat. I just want to know whether to waste the 10 bucks on trying new bolts.
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Originally Posted by smurray
(Post 15766690)
Scrod,
What are your thoughts on the Selle Italia Turbo Reissue saddle? I saw on pedalroom that you have one on at least one of your bikes and was hoping I could get some insight on how you liked it. |
What did they do with this wheel??
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...d1e66e3fd6.jpg I would think that the Sram hub would have 36 holes. Every third hole is skipped on the hub yet evenly spaced on the rim. Is it a 36H hub laced to a 24H rim? |
Originally Posted by gregjones
(Post 15767730)
Is it a 36H hub laced to a 24H rim?
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15766891)
Get some 1mm chainring bolt spacers. So you know, 1mm axle spacers are the same thing.
edit: Huh. Those should cost way less than 10 bucks for a set. editedit: Okay, like 7, but Niagara Cycle's product details are fuzzy at best and non-existent in this case. |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15766900)
I have an original Turbo and a reissue. Selle Italia did a very good job replicating the padding on the new ones and they are just as comfortable after a little breaking in. The soft, suede-like finish will wear off and get smooth after a little while though (which I happen to like better).
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Originally Posted by highonpez
(Post 15768157)
Sweet. Thanks.
edit: Huh. Those should cost way less than 10 bucks for a set. editedit: Okay, like 7, but Niagara Cycle's product details are fuzzy at best and non-existent in this case. |
Originally Posted by smurray
(Post 15769528)
Which would you recommend between the Turbo reissue and the Brooks Team Pro Classic?
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15769540)
Unless you plan on using my ass, I can't tell you which will be more comfortable - especially when you're picking between two entirely different saddles.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15769535)
Dude, are you kidding me? Go to a bike shop. They'll be like 25 cents each.
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I assume your new profile pic is designed to obscure your face, but every time I see I think you're doing the "slow face wipe with hand" like "oh my god, are these people really saying this stuff?" Is that on purpose? [i'm going to keep reading it that way, because most of the time it works with what you're saying]
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Originally Posted by sinikl
(Post 15770190)
I assume your new profile pic is designed to obscure your face, but every time I see I think you're doing the "slow face wipe with hand" like "oh my god, are these people really saying this stuff?" Is that on purpose? [i'm going to keep reading it that way, because most of the time it works with what you're saying]
/facepalm |
Originally Posted by sinikl
(Post 15770190)
Is that on purpose? [i'm going to keep reading it that way, because most of the time it works with what you're saying]
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15770751)
Yes.
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That too...but it's mostly the facepalm thing.
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Hey Scrod, I can't straighten my Kilo TT's fork back the straight-blade fork you sell would work without a huge difference in the rake correct? The way it handles I mean
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Because no two Kilo TT forks seem to be exactly alike, it's hard to say what the rake of your original fork even was. I know quite a few people using the straight-blade fork on Kilos and they haven't died.
People like to freak out over a few degrees difference in rake but I doubt you'll notice a difference. |
Would you be able to get some Soma Hwy 1 bars in 26.0, they're not on the site anymore
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When you're balls-deep into an overhaul, what do you use to keep your tools handy? I find that my workshop tends to look like a bomb went off after I'm done with a maintenance project, and I need to figure out how to keep my tools from drifting.
Shop apron? Tool cart? |
Originally Posted by DarkSeraphim
(Post 15780364)
Would you be able to get some Soma Hwy 1 bars in 26.0, they're not on the site anymore
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I asked there a couples days ago XD. You haven't answered there so I thought I would redirect you there. I followed the rules initially.......
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Originally Posted by striknein
(Post 15780700)
When you're balls-deep into an overhaul, what do you use to keep your tools handy? I find that my workshop tends to look like a bomb went off after I'm done with a maintenance project, and I need to figure out how to keep my tools from drifting.
Shop apron? Tool cart? Seriously, though...I've got a little 3 shelf rolling tool cart I picked up at Harbor Freight that was slightly modified/improved to suit my needs at the shop. |
Originally Posted by DarkSeraphim
(Post 15780760)
I asked there a couples days ago XD. You haven't answered there so I thought I would redirect you there. I followed the rules initially.......
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Man that's what technology is for....you know to not actually talk but instead waste time typing and waiting for a reply hahaha. In all seriousness though I'll make sure I call next time, completely slipped my mind. No hard feelings all mighty Scrodzilla?
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I answered you in the RG thread. :)
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Hey Scrod. I'm still a day away from placing my big parts order at Universal, and the more I read about chain lubricants the more confused I get. Basically, what is the difference between a "wet" lube and a "dry" lube, and how do I determine which is better for a given bike. Is the Finish Line Ceramic Wet Lube you recommended better for wet conditions than dry ones ? If I hardly ever ride a particular bike in the rain, would a "dry" lube like the Finish Line Ceramic wax Lube be a better choice ? I did notice that many reviewers of the Finish line Ceramic Wet Lube complained that it stains the chain grey. I suppose I can just buy one of each and experiment.
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Wet lubes are wet (like oil), where dry lubes will dry to a waxy consistency on your chain after applying them. In theory, dry lubes are supposed to flake off when they make contact with dirt, dust, etc - keeping your chain clean. It does work, but it also means you'll be reapplying the stuff every few days.
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i have to relube my dry lube every 40 miles, it's so annoying
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15781699)
Wet lubes are wet (like oil), where dry lubes will dry to a waxy consistency on your chain after applying them. In theory, dry lubes are supposed to flake off when they make contact with dirt, dust, etc - keeping your chain clean. It does work, but it also means you'll be reapplying the stuff every few days.
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