Any 1 1/8" fork will work but you'll either need to keep swapping the crown race back and forth (which I don't reccomend) or buy an extra one.

Yeah, I can't make heads or tails of that moonspeak either, but I thought maybe you'd seen something along those lines from one of your sw8 fixie distributors.

Them's a little pricy- the one that ships is $60 if google's exchange rates are current.

$60 might be worth it if it means you don't need to buy a new fork and crown race to ride in San Diego.

I bet you could make one with an old stem and a piece of angle iron for a truly ghetto solution. Could actually be a cool thing for taking brakes off at the track, a hinged cross lever and one of those and you're GTG in like 2 minutes.

A good friend of mine owns a machine shop. I'm going to see what we can make happen.

Scrod, I have a conundrum. The headset is solid, just having some issues with both of my bearing dust caps. Stock, and an aftermarket low stack.

With the stock FSA cap, the dust cap makes contact with the headtube, so that isn't good. It's easily fixable with microspacers though.

The other issue is a little meh-er.
I'd prefer to use the aftermarket one... well, cause I paid for it.

The issue with the "Slam That Stem" dust cap is that there's a 2-3mm gap between the headtube and the dust cap. There are some pics later. It's functional like that, it just looks like ****.

The compression ring that came with the headset has a solid, like 2mm lip above the angular part(pics will show it better). I think a different compression ring, one with the same angle as the stock ring, would fix the gap. A more standard ring, with less of a lip.

I'm thinking of trying a compression with less of a lip, like this:


Gap:


Compression ring:


Installed w/o dust cap:




Think that'll work? Thoughts?

Put the cap on and take another pic.

Which cap?

stock or STS?

The one you'd like it to work out with.

EDIT: didn't realize how ****ty that last one was, here:

Are you sure that top bearing is in all the way?

It will close very slightly when you snug it all down but that's still too much of a gap. Can you just use the stock compression ring with a thin spacer? Did the headset come with internal spacers?

It didn't come with any microspacers, but wouldnt that make the gap bigger?

Yes, I derped and thought the top pic was with the FSA dust cap. I'm still thinking that top bearing isn't seated all the way in the head tube. Does the bottom one stick out that much?

The bottom one is perfect.

Think I need the race reamed?

No, I think you may just need to push the top bearing in a little more. It should be sitting pretty flush with the top of the head tube.

If it won't go in any more, what does the stock setup look like?

The bearing won't go in anymore. The stock dustcap actually makes contact with the headtube, and would need a spacer.

Here's the stock cap:


Here's the bottom race. My feeler gauge puts the gap at 9/10's of a mm.

Us a small spacer and the stock cap. What if you're not even comfortable with your stem slammed like that?

Yeah, figured. Was hoping something might work.

Thanks!

Scrod what is the the best 130 bcd cranks in your opinion. Also do you have any idea whether or not these would be an improvement over stock wheels https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=3879 . Thanks.

The best 130 BCD cranks (IMO) are the Sugino Messenger and the SRAM S300.

I have no idea what your stock wheels are. Those Zerolite wheels probably aren't much better, if at all. If you want reasons why, the hubs suck and they weigh a ton.

Bring the bike into the shop around noon. I'll have a look and figure it out, then we can go get some tacos at this really good Mexican place up the road.

Hahahaha, I might be late.

I swear if i can gather up some dudes to do the ride up there from nyc next year when its nice out, we will hang for real and eat all the foods

That would rule. Plan it for summer so we can hit the beach.