Top pull front derailleur choices
#1
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From: Burnaby,B.C., Canada
Bikes: 1970 Gitane TDF; 1985 Norco Magnum GT ; 2013 Rawland Stag ; 1981 Fuji 650b; 2004 Kona Caldera; 1976 Apollo MK V
Top pull front derailleur choices
Hi everyone - trying to find a good quality but not expensive 28.6 clamp on top pull bottom swing front changer. I had my eye on the latest Ultegra 6700 as it looks quite nice. The crank set is a compact double with 48/34 chain rings. The bike is set up with a Shimano 9 speed with mountain gearing (11-34). Something less expensive than the Ultegra out there, maybe vintage? I also want to keep the finish in silver or natural metal. I really need to replace the Shimano xtr m970 on the bike at the moment with something classier!
#2
you may want to check this out-- If you have been using your M970 in the top pull configuration, the same set up will not work on the Ultegra. The Ultegra requires a fairing on the bottom of the bottom bracket shell and the cable comes aroung it and up to the derailleur. If you have been using the M970 in the traditional configuration a road derailleur will work. The Tiagra 4500 or the 4400 is a reasonably priced dependable derailleur. Shimano 105 is also a nice FD, but I don't notice any difference in shifting--just a little more bling.
https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830686340.PDF
https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830686340.PDF
Last edited by Doug64; 01-13-11 at 12:10 AM.
#3
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From: Burnaby,B.C., Canada
Bikes: 1970 Gitane TDF; 1985 Norco Magnum GT ; 2013 Rawland Stag ; 1981 Fuji 650b; 2004 Kona Caldera; 1976 Apollo MK V
I looked at the document you linked to and realized I have the M971, bottom swing with a top pull. The bike I have is setup with the cable stop high upon the seat tube like many mountain bikes, such as my Giant Anthem. the cables all run along the top tube for rear brake, front and rear derailleurs. It seems there are not many choices out there with a 28.6 clamp. Some older ones seem to have limited chain ring capacity as well.Any thoughts? The attached image shows the bike's configuration although I am replacing the crank set. Still in the middle of a build.
#6
Did you know that Problem Solvers (and probably other mfrs) makes a seat tube-mounted cable pulley?
The pulley shown in the attachment is bolted to a dedicated braze-on behind the seat tube, but others are available with clamps.
The pulley shown in the attachment is bolted to a dedicated braze-on behind the seat tube, but others are available with clamps.
#8
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DD in #6 has a good plan, your issue is top pull is predominately MTB, and they migrated
to compact, small chainrings.
Road stuff, bottom pull predominant.
rollers near BB has been the cyclocross solution.. top run cables popular..
Another kludge, top push. housing pushes bottom pull FD, cable is anchored, fixed at he BB,
Had a Nishiki Alien, in the 80's , built around that technique. thumb shifters, .. it worked.
to compact, small chainrings.
Road stuff, bottom pull predominant.
rollers near BB has been the cyclocross solution.. top run cables popular..
Another kludge, top push. housing pushes bottom pull FD, cable is anchored, fixed at he BB,
Had a Nishiki Alien, in the 80's , built around that technique. thumb shifters, .. it worked.
#9
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From: Burnaby,B.C., Canada
Bikes: 1970 Gitane TDF; 1985 Norco Magnum GT ; 2013 Rawland Stag ; 1981 Fuji 650b; 2004 Kona Caldera; 1976 Apollo MK V
Thank you for trying to help me out with this. I have heard about the pulley set up, except the fact that I am not sure using Campagnolo ergo type shifters will work well. Would there be any issues with the amount of travel or shifting resistance or effort? I'm new to the Campy/Shimano combination and the top pull set up is not helping either. If I could use the pulley the choices wold be much better. I noticed a threaded hole just below where I have clamped the XTR changer. I wonder if that is where a pulley can be mounted? If so I saw one being sold by Superfly Cycles which looks to be high quality,kind of expensive though.
Last edited by VintageRide; 01-13-11 at 04:02 PM.
#10
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Although it may not fit your *all classic sliver* theme, (and I understand the desire to make a new build that way), why not just roll with the XTR unit you currently own? Finish your build and ride it.... then change it later if it bugs you.
#11
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From: Burnaby,B.C., Canada
Bikes: 1970 Gitane TDF; 1985 Norco Magnum GT ; 2013 Rawland Stag ; 1981 Fuji 650b; 2004 Kona Caldera; 1976 Apollo MK V
Your advice makes the most sense - something that is not always present when putting components on a bike! Problem with me is that every time I see a nice looking road derailleur I can't wait to changer out that xtr one. If I could trade for something similar like a dura ace model for example I would not hesitate. Or sell the xtr. All I then need is the pulley. Oops, more money.
#12
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That would appear to be what that boss would be for... Redirect roller ,
QBP sells some, there were rollers on most 3 speeds , theirs at top of seattube
rolling guide .. top tube to seatstay cable run, to rear hub.
QBP sells some, there were rollers on most 3 speeds , theirs at top of seattube
rolling guide .. top tube to seatstay cable run, to rear hub.
#13
Well, that sure appears to be a braze-on for a pulley on your seat tube.
MSRP on Problem Solvers pulley is 7.50
https://problemsolversbike.com/produc...clamps_pulleys
The pulley only changes the direction of cable pull, not the amount of pull.
MSRP on Problem Solvers pulley is 7.50
https://problemsolversbike.com/produc...clamps_pulleys
The pulley only changes the direction of cable pull, not the amount of pull.
#14
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From: Western NY
I have a similar set up as the OP and I have an early 2000's XT derailleur on my cross bike. I had the frame made custom so I caused this problem for myself as I wanted the cables ran along the top tub to keep the dirt out. Anyway, while the XT still works, I've tried to use the clamp on problem solver pulley but the seat tube on my bike is ovalized at the bottom bracket junction and the clamp doesn't fit. I even bought a nice new derailleur to put on...still sitting in the box. If you can find an older XT like mine it is at least silver and would not clash as bad as the gray XTR. I don't look forward to having to replace my XT any time soon due to the problems you are having finding something new.
#15
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From: Burnaby,B.C., Canada
Bikes: 1970 Gitane TDF; 1985 Norco Magnum GT ; 2013 Rawland Stag ; 1981 Fuji 650b; 2004 Kona Caldera; 1976 Apollo MK V
Since I have Campagnolo 10 speed shifters, can I use any Campagnolo front? Basically I am wondering about chain rub with the 11-34 cassette and a 9 speed chain. Never having used ergo style shifters and what cage adjustment possibilities there are. And to add to this, I seem to remember reading that older 8 speed Dura Ace 7400 type are a bit better because of the wider cage.
Last edited by VintageRide; 01-14-11 at 01:42 AM.
#16
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