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Bar end shifter and mustache question

Old 08-28-15, 07:04 AM
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MulliganAl
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Bar end shifter and mustache question

I recently acquired a beautiful Rivendell with, according to the seller, only 150 miles on it; the bike looks brand spanking new. But while looking over the setup I'm discovering some things that make me wonder if there was even that much mileage put on the bike.

First the brake pads were too large for the wheels he put on so I purchased a set of Kool-Stop Thinline pads to give the Paul Racer center pulls more clearance. Then the brakes were not adjusted correctly so I've been fiddling with those to get them right and it looks like the springs were reversed, I'm guessing they are different colors for a reason. I also noticed that the bar end shifter cables seemed a bit short, but I see that the cables are under the handlebar's bar tape all the way to the stem clamp, so I was wondering if this is the correct way to run bar end shifter cables or should they stop at some point giving more slack to the cables?
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Old 08-28-15, 08:07 AM
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Tim_Iowa
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Originally Posted by MulliganAl View Post
I recently acquired a beautiful Rivendell
Congrats! I bought a 97 Rivendell Road Standard a couple years ago with many, many more miles on it, but it's still an excellent frame.

What model did you buy?

RE: brake pads - Yes, the front Paul Racer brakes don't have much clearance when open. I have to partially deflate my 38 mm tires. KS Thinlines help, KS Cross pads are even better because they're short enough that they don't hit the fork blades. I'm not sure what you are talking about regarding springs and different colors. Paul Comp should have a diagram somewhere.

Re: Cables - Are you asking if they're too short? Could you show a picture of the shifter cables in question?

Or are you just concerned about running the cables under the tape? Some folks let them hang free without going under the tape at all, other folks wrap the first 6 inches or so in the grip area, and let the rest run free, and other folks tape them all the way to the stem. Any method is fine IF it leaves enough housing to keep from binding.
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Old 08-28-15, 08:17 AM
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Cabling on barend shifters usually exits the handlebar tape (this is for drop bars) about halfway up the drops and then curves down to the frame's housing stops. It is possible to run the housing all the way to the stem as you would for Campy Ergos or recent STIs and I've seen this done successfully. The extra housing does make for more friction so try to keep the curves as open as possible.
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Old 08-28-15, 08:20 AM
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I've run the cable for the first few wraps before, and now run the cable the length of the wrap. Either way can be done, there isn't much loss with bar ends when you run more cable and the setup looks much cleaner. Slack in the cable is what you dont want, but that is a matter of cutting the right length and using barrel adjusters.

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Old 08-28-15, 09:35 AM
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I tend to run the bar end cables under the tape until the brake lever mounting band ,

where you have to go around the brake body under the hood, etc.

then the bar end shifter housing exits, from under the tape

I have that on the inside of a drop bar , so Mustache Bar, It would be the bottom side ..

smooth curves is what you want..

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Old 08-28-15, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim_Iowa View Post
Congrats! I bought a 97 Rivendell Road Standard a couple years ago with many, many more miles on it, but it's still an excellent frame.

What model did you buy?

Thanks for the help Tim, I got the blue Sam Hillborne, beautiful bike. Can't wait to try my first commute on it and I'm sure it will be far more comfortable than the Specialized Tarmac I've been commuting on. I also have a Nitto front rack (and some fenders) coming so I can stop commuting with that dang backpack on my back.

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Old 08-28-15, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MulliganAl View Post
Thanks for the help Tim, I got the blue Sam Hillborne, beautiful bike. Can't wait to try my first commute on it and I'm sure it will be far more comfortable than the Specialized Tarmac I've been commuting on. I also have a Nitto front rack (and some fenders) coming so I can stop commuting with that dang backpack on my back.
That's a lovely bike. Yes, the cables look a little tight. Perhaps they were installed when the stem was slammed?

I ran moustache bars for a while on my Riv with those same Cane Creek brake levers. I changed them to non-aero Dia-Compes, and preferred the cable routing.
Then, I changed the bars to Nitto B135 Randonneurs, and liked them even more. The moustache bars were a little to upright for me.

Here's how mine is set up currently:

and more photos

Regarding the different color brake pads on your Paul Racers: Mine came the same way, with red pads in front and black in the rear. I don't know why. It doesn't seem to matter.

If you don't know already, there's a Google Group called "RBW Owners Bunch" that's a great resource for all things Rivendell.
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Old 08-28-15, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim_Iowa View Post
If you don't know already, there's a Google Group called "RBW Owners Bunch" that's a great resource for all things Rivendell.
Sounds like a take-off on the BOB (Bridgestone Owners Bunch) name. It is made up of (wait for it) Bridgestone owners. I assume Grant swiped the name concept since he was the US sales manager for Bridgestone before they left the US market.
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