I'm preparing a Super Mondia frame for powder coating, and the frame is in excellent condition, except.......

Apparently the head badge had come off, and was reattached using pop rivets. Remnants of the original bottom rivet are still in the frame, and a new hole was drilled right next to it. More accurately, it looks like they punched a hole in the frame because there is a pretty good indentation in the head tube where the new hole is. The dent is only about 1/2" diameter and only about 1/8" deep. If I can ever find another head badge, chances are, it will cover most of that dent, but in the meantime, I want to fill the hole.

Which brings me to my question. Can I powder coat over body filler? If so, is there a better kind to use? In a perfect world, I would have the dent pulled out and the holes brazed shut, but it has chrome-plated lugs, and I don't want them exposed to high temperatures. I'm looking for a 'room temperature' solution. I'm just not sure about the powder coating process, and if the powder will be attracted to body filler. There will be very little of it.

I would check with your powder coater to see what he recommends. Don't forget, the powder coating process involves heat, so you'll need something to which the powder will adhere, as well as something that won't burn and bubble in the oven.

I've heard people have good luck with JB Weld as a filler.

If you're getting the frame refinished anyway, why not fill the hole properly with silver and file it smooth? Unless the holes are immediately adjacent to the chrome lugs (i.e. within a couple millimeters), this can be done quickly enough that the chrome won't be affected.

Maybe a picture would help.

you cant powder coat over filler. it needs to hold a static charge to adhere the powder. if it were mine i would use a dent puller with a screw. screw it in the hole, pull the dent out. weld both holes and finish it smooth. good luck

Answer here: https://www.powder365.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2093

you cant powdercoat bondo.

get it painted- it will turn out much better.
this subject is like

I've heard of using JB Weld, but have not tried it. If I was fixing it myself I'd MIG it and grind it smooth. A framebuilder could do it more delicately.

I've been really pleased with the frames I've had powdercoated, though I've yet to do one with masking of chrome.

Just silver solder it and shape it up - You can take it to a pluming shop and I'm sure there will be someone that would do it for you - Another option is taking it to a welding body shop - Here's a link to give you an idea...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SD98LDc0GAI

When you reinstall the headbage is it going to cover the deformity?

I wouldn't anticipate any problem silvering those closed.

I checked with the gentleman who is going to do the powder coating, and he says he can do it....no problem. I guess that pretty much settles the body filler question.

Thanks, folks. I appreciate the input.

Yes, nearly all of it. The bigger problem will be finding a headbadge. The one that came off the bike is toast. I'm checking all the usual suspects on a daily basis, but so far, no glory.

In that case he must be using a type of filler that has a heavy aluminum content in it. I don;t remember ever actually seeing this stuff, but I know that it exists.

Someone really attempted to murder that head-tube.

They do have a filler that's called allmetal. That might be what he's using.

It would have been a simple matter to fill that hole with solder. The first thing I always did when filling holes in auto bodies was to use a punch to make the hole a dent so that the solder has a larger area to adhere to. The same goes for plastic filler.

My concern with a lead solder is if the temperature of the powder coat baking is high enough to melt the solder. The liquidus of a silver filler ought to be well above any powder coat temperature.

Did I say lead?

Actually, I've never tried it with silver solder because I never had a reason to use it for filling holes. I've used silver solder for other things and found it a bit more difficult to work with.