The Aussie Thread- Part 4
#4102
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 286
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https://www.celluloidcycles.com.au/ is a film festival for the melbourne riders, RMIT theatre. I will be going, "Sunday in Hell" big screen. You got me.
#4103
"No chainstay cross-brace eliminates stress-risers "
What's is that Thylo?
P.S. When I get that $9k, I'm coming to you for the full custom.
What's is that Thylo?
P.S. When I get that $9k, I'm coming to you for the full custom.
#4104
Industry Maven

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,936
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From: Wherever good bikes are sold
Bikes: Thylacines...only Thylacines.
Generally speaking we don't put that little cross-tube between the chainstays just behind the bottom bracket, but it depends on the material and other factors.
$9k is a lot of dough. I dunno why anyone would spend more than $6k on a bike
*Note to self this morning* If you want to wake up in a good mood, do NOT switch on morning telly.
$9k is a lot of dough. I dunno why anyone would spend more than $6k on a bike

*Note to self this morning* If you want to wake up in a good mood, do NOT switch on morning telly.
#4105
Phat but not too fat

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 881
Likes: 0
From: Bay of Plenty
Bikes: Kona Zing & Conder Cone
stress risers, as described by the "when metal lets us down" page :
Stress is also concentrated at — and magnified by — any geometric discontinuities in the part, such as corners, holes, notches, threads, scratches, nicks and pits. Such discontinuities are commonly referred to as "stress risers" and are almost invariably where fatigue cracks begin.
Stress is also concentrated at — and magnified by — any geometric discontinuities in the part, such as corners, holes, notches, threads, scratches, nicks and pits. Such discontinuities are commonly referred to as "stress risers" and are almost invariably where fatigue cracks begin.
#4106
Phat but not too fat

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 881
Likes: 0
From: Bay of Plenty
Bikes: Kona Zing & Conder Cone
damn - clicked too quickly, the link to the helpful metals page - https://www.avweb.com/news/maint/184271-1.html
#4107
ahhh, cool, got it.
Yes $9k is a lot. All of mine together probably cost that much. If I get that much spare cash it'll be part of a $1m lotto win so it won't bother me
Yes $9k is a lot. All of mine together probably cost that much. If I get that much spare cash it'll be part of a $1m lotto win so it won't bother me
#4108
Phat but not too fat

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 881
Likes: 0
From: Bay of Plenty
Bikes: Kona Zing & Conder Cone
LOL, both of my bikes cost me a total of about $3k (I must have some Scots or Yorkshire heritage, I know of Nottingham and Danish.) However if I won lotto I too would be off to the bike shop for a spending spree like no other.
#4109
Industry Maven

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,936
Likes: 0
From: Wherever good bikes are sold
Bikes: Thylacines...only Thylacines.
I don't wanna think about what the retail value is of my three bikes. Probably about 16k. 
Naturally my cost is somewhere more in the vicinity of 3

Naturally my cost is somewhere more in the vicinity of 3
#4110
https://www.velonews.com/tech/report/...es/9662.0.html
Here ya go Nev. Isn't rotating weight a personal favourite issue of yours?
Here ya go Nev. Isn't rotating weight a personal favourite issue of yours?
#4111
Industry Maven

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,936
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From: Wherever good bikes are sold
Bikes: Thylacines...only Thylacines.
That's what I love about Engineers. They have no concept of the big picture.
What interests me the most with most "bike discussions" is how small the numbers are. 6 watts over 10 seconds accellerating from 20mph to 30mph....Switch from a 1100g frame to a 1500g frame, save 0.7% percent of total rider+bike weight.....etc.
There's no doubt in my mind that there are improvements to be made, but honestly, 99% of us pedal like the spastic buckets of meat we are, which probably negates all the absolutely minute improvements we might make by a factor of 10. Or more.
For me (and this is funny coming from a guy who has zero motivation to ride at the moment) the biggest improvement you can make to your riding is, well, riding more.
What interests me the most with most "bike discussions" is how small the numbers are. 6 watts over 10 seconds accellerating from 20mph to 30mph....Switch from a 1100g frame to a 1500g frame, save 0.7% percent of total rider+bike weight.....etc.
There's no doubt in my mind that there are improvements to be made, but honestly, 99% of us pedal like the spastic buckets of meat we are, which probably negates all the absolutely minute improvements we might make by a factor of 10. Or more.
For me (and this is funny coming from a guy who has zero motivation to ride at the moment) the biggest improvement you can make to your riding is, well, riding more.
#4112
Ochayethenoo
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
From: Green Point, NSW
Bikes: Lemond MJ Classic, Klein Palomino, Felt TK2 Track, Daccordi vintage
Originally Posted by Thylacine
EDIT: the biggest improvement you can make to your riding is, well, riding more.
FWIW, after not being on the roadie for about 4 weeks (but training on the MTB in the hills) I found I was going like a train when I got back on the roadie. The effect seemed lessend going from a month of dedicated track training onto the roadie.
#4113
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,428
Likes: 0
From: Bathurst oz
Originally Posted by pshaw
+1
FWIW, after not being on the roadie for about 4 weeks (but training on the MTB in the hills) I found I was going like a train when I got back on the roadie. The effect seemed lessend going from a month of dedicated track training onto the roadie.
FWIW, after not being on the roadie for about 4 weeks (but training on the MTB in the hills) I found I was going like a train when I got back on the roadie. The effect seemed lessend going from a month of dedicated track training onto the roadie.
#4114
Aluminium Crusader :-)

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,050
Likes: 11
From: Melbourne, Australia
Originally Posted by classic1
https://www.velonews.com/tech/report/...es/9662.0.html
Here ya go Nev. Isn't rotating weight a personal favourite issue of yours?
Here ya go Nev. Isn't rotating weight a personal favourite issue of yours?

#4115
Aluminium Crusader :-)

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,050
Likes: 11
From: Melbourne, Australia
so, I put some 175s on last night, and I felt fkn FANTASTIC!!!
What was I thinkin with them 180s??!!
What was I thinkin with them 180s??!!
#4116
Think of the less rotational weight you have with the 175's
Last edited by classic1; 03-28-06 at 07:16 PM.
#4118
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 666
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne, Australia
Bikes: Wilier, Alchemy, Merida MTB,
I'm only around 5'8"-5'9" but I was riding 175mm cranks because they came on the bike & I had no idea they even came in different lengths when I bought it!
Now I've got 170mm but I changed bikes at the same time so I can't really determine how much difference (if any) the shorter cranks make.
Now I've got 170mm but I changed bikes at the same time so I can't really determine how much difference (if any) the shorter cranks make.
#4119
Aluminium Crusader :-)

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,050
Likes: 11
From: Melbourne, Australia
Originally Posted by classic1
Plus you have less rotational weight with the 175's

I might even try some 172.5s today. Rob Crowe can ride at 80kmh into a headwind; he uses 172.5, and he's 6ft3!!!
some of the rec.bicycles.tech heroes have been arguing over that Velo News article
https://www.cyclingforums.com/t327415.html
#4120
Thor's dad
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 581
Likes: 0
From: Oz
Bikes: 2006 Trek 5200, Avanti Corsa Pro, Giant Yukon, Ricardo Cro-Mo, 1992 Mongoose pro-comp, 1980 DiamondBack senior pro, 1980 Quicksilver... half a dozen other BMX bikes in various stages of completion.
hmm, I'm 5'11 and my bike came with 172.5's... I think I'd be worried about 'em digging in (cornering) if I went longer cos I think I'm real close now.
#4121
im 5'8, short legs tho and i have 170's on my old MTB hardtail and 172.5's on my new MTB and roadie. the 172.5's make a massive difference in feel as far as being able to to power down.
it feels quite foreign now when i rdie the 170's. one thing that ive been curious about is willt he 170's given they have a shorter, more compact rotation help improve pedal stroke? i osmetimes feel that my pedal stroke is improved after using them
Totaly off topic, WTF is a compact crank? is it where you run a smaller inner ring or inner / outer ring on the front?
it feels quite foreign now when i rdie the 170's. one thing that ive been curious about is willt he 170's given they have a shorter, more compact rotation help improve pedal stroke? i osmetimes feel that my pedal stroke is improved after using them
Totaly off topic, WTF is a compact crank? is it where you run a smaller inner ring or inner / outer ring on the front?
#4122
Industry Maven

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,936
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From: Wherever good bikes are sold
Bikes: Thylacines...only Thylacines.
Nev, I'll swap ya a case of Draught for your DA 180's 
Man, are the forums rooted or what. C'mon Gardner, get ya sh¡t together!

Man, are the forums rooted or what. C'mon Gardner, get ya sh¡t together!
#4123
Aluminium Crusader :-)

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,050
Likes: 11
From: Melbourne, Australia
Originally Posted by HDTVKSS
ive been curious about is will the 170's given they have a shorter, more compact rotation help improve pedal stroke? i sometimes feel that my pedal stroke is improved after using them
That's just the beginning of the whole confusing issue -- some people think it's simply a matter of leverage, but there are so many factors that it's rediculous!! The main conundrum is that the seat has to lower, so the knee is in a weaker (more flexed) position, therefore, some of the potential leverage advantages are negated.....etc, etc.......bigger circles require more work, etc...yada yada. I've been a bit obsessed by this for nearly 2 yearsnow, and I can tell ya the whole thing is overrated, and long cranks aren't worth the extra stress on the knees
Originally Posted by HDTVKSS
Totaly off topic, WTF is a compact crank? is it where you run a smaller inner ring or inner / outer ring on the front?
Compact Crank
"A double-chainring crankset with that permits the use of smaller chainrings than will fit with the common 130 mm B.C.D. (bolt circle diameter). Most "compact double" cranks use the old standard 110 mm B.C.D. which permits the use of chainrings as small as 33 teeth (more commonly, 34 or 36 teeth.)
Compact crank sets usually come with a 50 tooth chainring, and will normally go with an 11 or 12 tooth top sprocket in back.
110 mm B.C.D. double cranks with full-sized (52-42, 52-40, etc.) were common in the late'70s and early '80s, but they had become nearly extinct for double chainrings. The rebirth of this format, with smaller rings, was pioneered by Tyler Hamilton who used one of these in the 2003 Tour de France"
the rings are so small that the bolt circle diameter has to be made smaller!!
I never heard of compact cranks or triples on a road bike until I got onto this forum -- what is it with these Yanks and their granny gears??!!
Must be all them mountains
Last edited by 531Aussie; 03-28-06 at 08:30 PM.
#4124
Aluminium Crusader :-)

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,050
Likes: 11
From: Melbourne, Australia
Originally Posted by Thylacine
Nev, I'll swap ya a case of Draught for your DA 180's
!
!
#4125
Industry Maven

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,936
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From: Wherever good bikes are sold
Bikes: Thylacines...only Thylacines.
Originally Posted by 531Aussie
yeah, I was wondering if you knew any big red heads who need some long cranks 




