Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

First fixie build

Old 03-26-19, 04:43 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by seamuis View Post
you wouldn’t actually need to do anything if you use a 120mm hub. I have a 126 conversion and it takes literally no extra effort to simply hand tighten the nuts down and take in the 3mm per side. I mean, there’s nothing wrong with dropping some cash on a couple of spacers, but it’s completely unnecessary.
I did that for a while after first building up my FG conversion. It does work, but it's always nice when your hub is the same width as the dropouts, so that the wheel holds itself in place while you make adjustments and tighten the nuts.

I don't remember the 3mm axle spacers being serious cash.
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Old 03-27-19, 05:42 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
I did that for a while after first building up my FG conversion. It does work, but it's always nice when your hub is the same width as the dropouts, so that the wheel holds itself in place while you make adjustments and tighten the nuts.

I don't remember the 3mm axle spacers being serious cash.
valid point! i think i can spring for some spacers. awesome! i'm pumped now that i can start looking at wheels!
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Old 03-28-19, 02:46 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by vailskier3 View Post
valid point! i think i can spring for some spacers. awesome! i'm pumped now that i can start looking at wheels!
Here's a wheelset to look at if you're interested!
https://velo-orange.com/collections/...-wheelset-700c
I use velo-orange hubs myself and the rear one is nice because it has a longer axle and comes with spacers to accommodate 120mm, 126mm or 130mm frames. The threading is also a tad wider so you can stick a 1mm spacer (also included) behind the sprocket to really dial in that chain line (I have a thread about this from back when I was doing it myself that you can look at for pictures and helpful advice from guys who are much more knowlegeble than me! Its called "Is this unsafe?")

These wheels seem pretty perfect for your build if you ask me! (Unless you want black... they only come in silver)

Looking forward to seing this finished build!

Last edited by PeopleAreIdiots; 03-28-19 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 03-31-19, 02:34 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
I did that for a while after first building up my FG conversion. It does work, but it's always nice when your hub is the same width as the dropouts, so that the wheel holds itself in place while you make adjustments and tighten the nuts.

I don't remember the 3mm axle spacers being serious cash.
I didn’t mention it because I was trying to save anyone any money. I just thought it important that for those who may not know, to clarify that you don’t have to have them. I never have an issue with the wheel moving freely, unless I want it to. Depends on how far you back the nuts off. I also use modified dropout adjustment screws as set stops. so setting my wheel back and adjusting tension is so simple, I could no joke, probably do it with my eyes closed. But that’s the difference right there. Every time I set my wheel back in, it’s not a ‘start from scratch’ scenario for chain tension. My wheel slots back in the same position, and I have the same tension, every time. I just have to remember to set my crank position beforehand. For my setup, having spacers would literally only change how far I back the nuts off.
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Old 03-31-19, 05:18 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by seamuis View Post
I didn’t mention it because I was trying to save anyone any money. I just thought it important that for those who may not know, to clarify that you don’t have to have them. I never have an issue with the wheel moving freely, unless I want it to. Depends on how far you back the nuts off. I also use modified dropout adjustment screws as set stops. so setting my wheel back and adjusting tension is so simple, I could no joke, probably do it with my eyes closed. But that’s the difference right there. Every time I set my wheel back in, it’s not a ‘start from scratch’ scenario for chain tension. My wheel slots back in the same position, and I have the same tension, every time. I just have to remember to set my crank position beforehand. For my setup, having spacers would literally only change how far I back the nuts off.
Yep, not a big deal either way.
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Old 04-01-19, 08:54 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by PeopleAreIdiots View Post
Here's a wheelset to look at if you're interested!
https://velo-orange.com/collections/...-wheelset-700c
I use velo-orange hubs myself and the rear one is nice because it has a longer axle and comes with spacers to accommodate 120mm, 126mm or 130mm frames. The threading is also a tad wider so you can stick a 1mm spacer (also included) behind the sprocket to really dial in that chain line (I have a thread about this from back when I was doing it myself that you can look at for pictures and helpful advice from guys who are much more knowlegeble than me! Its called "Is this unsafe?")

These wheels seem pretty perfect for your build if you ask me! (Unless you want black... they only come in silver)

Looking forward to seing this finished build!
i do like those wheels, they look really nice. unfortunately they look to be sold out. also, i think i want a little deeper v. i'm gonna try to go for 38-50mm. i just like the look of them for some reason. i'll probably go with silver. bikesdirect has a set of track wheels for $69. i may just get those for now and upgrade later if they suck.
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Old 04-01-19, 11:58 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by vailskier3 View Post
i do like those wheels, they look really nice. unfortunately they look to be sold out. also, i think i want a little deeper v. i'm gonna try to go for 38-50mm. i just like the look of them for some reason. i'll probably go with silver. bikesdirect has a set of track wheels for $69. i may just get those for now and upgrade later if they suck.
Oh shoot yeah... didn't even notice that. Well you could always have retrogression build you up some wheels with those velo orange hubs and some silver deep section rims (they've got a couple options on their website). That would probably end up running you between 400 and 500 bucks though.

When I first started riding I bought an absolute crap blue 6ku wheelset because I liked the color and the deep v style. Honestly, as heavy as they were, they were still wheels and they did what they were supposed to do. They got me through like 2 years without much maintenance and still acted like a wheel. I was pretty stoked on the look of them too for a while but as I entered the upgrades rabbit hole my tastes started to favor higher quality and durability over flashyness. (Part of me still kinda likes the colorful deep v look though)

Here's my two cents, get what will make you ride. If you want to save some money and upgrade later that's totally fine, you don't always have to get the most legit parts first, especially of youre still kinda feeling out the hobby. If you think deep vs are cool, get them because you are gonna ride a bike you think is cool more than a bike youre lukewarm about. However, if you are the type of guy with money to burn (hey some people have it and I dont judge) I'd recommend something better than a $70 wheelset, that's pretty bottom of the barrel. You will notice the difference, even just starting out, between a bargain basement wheelset and one that costs like 300 or 400 bucks.

otherwise, keep us updated. And I want to see some pictures when this is finished!
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Old 04-01-19, 01:47 PM
  #58  
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you're right. i think i'm trying to rush putting it together. patience is a virtue they say...
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Old 04-24-19, 04:16 AM
  #59  
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anyone got any suggestions for a lower-end but solid wheelset for my build?
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Old 04-24-19, 09:53 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by vailskier3 View Post
anyone got any suggestions for a lower-end but solid wheelset for my build?
You need to clarify “lower end”. Are you talking price? Quality? Both? What kind of general budget are you looking at? Are there any specific wants or needs from your wheels? Kind of hard to offer help with such a general description that will mean different things to different people. Typically anything under say $300 is going to be a machine built wheel, which isn’t bad but certainly could be ‘lower end’. I would at all honesty, avoid anything less than $200. Save the extra pennies and buy a better wheelset from the start. The wabi ‘sub-15’ I believe is now like $350 for the set, but it’s still highly recommended. There are a number of good choices at velomine.com as well in the 2-300 dollar category. Aesthetics matter, yes, but so does performance. There already a bunch of good advice about this in the thread. So you need to decide what you’re willing to spend first, then set out personal desires regarding looks, performance, specs, etc. Then from there try and find a wheel set that best matches those in the price range you’ve set.
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Old 04-29-19, 01:55 PM
  #61  
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I guess my question is more what are you getting when you bump from a $70 set vs $200 set vs $300+? I really would prefer to stay closer to under $200, but I also want a quality wheelset. I don't want to just get a cheap set just to be done, but I also don't want to have to save my pennies until next year to get a wheelset. I'm also not opposed to buying used, so I really just would like some recommendations if going with a used better wheelset would be better than a brand new entry level wheelset.
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Old 04-30-19, 04:33 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by vailskier3 View Post
I guess my question is more what are you getting when you bump from a $70 set vs $200 set vs $300+? I really would prefer to stay closer to under $200, but I also want a quality wheelset. I don't want to just get a cheap set just to be done, but I also don't want to have to save my pennies until next year to get a wheelset. I'm also not opposed to buying used, so I really just would like some recommendations if going with a used better wheelset would be better than a brand new entry level wheelset.
Better quality components. At that price range, any wheel you buy new, is undoubtedly going to be machine built. Which means the overall build quality of the wheel, not its conponenta, will likely be the same. If you’re looking to spend less than 200, simply put, you likely won’t get Avery good wheelset. The lower you go, the more likely you are to end up with issues. Hub service issues, basic qc issues with the individual parts, and you’ll probably find that they not only not offer a good ride quality, but could actually give bad ride quality. None of this is an absolute guarantee, it’s just that the cheaper you go, the more the wheel was specifically built to be, well, cheap, if you get my drift. There’s nothing wrong with wanting and affordable wheelset, but your wheels are extremely important. Not something you want to take a chance on, in my opinion. Could end up costing you way more in the long run, and not just monetarily. I, and I think most other cyclists would agree that typically anything below 200 bucks, is likely not worth it. That just my advice as a fellow cyclist, offering his time. What you decide to buy, is your choice. Makes no difference to me.
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Old 04-30-19, 06:05 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by seamuis View Post
Better quality components. At that price range, any wheel you buy new, is undoubtedly going to be machine built. Which means the overall build quality of the wheel, not its conponenta, will likely be the same. If you’re looking to spend less than 200, simply put, you likely won’t get Avery good wheelset. The lower you go, the more likely you are to end up with issues. Hub service issues, basic qc issues with the individual parts, and you’ll probably find that they not only not offer a good ride quality, but could actually give bad ride quality. None of this is an absolute guarantee, it’s just that the cheaper you go, the more the wheel was specifically built to be, well, cheap, if you get my drift. There’s nothing wrong with wanting and affordable wheelset, but your wheels are extremely important. Not something you want to take a chance on, in my opinion. Could end up costing you way more in the long run, and not just monetarily. I, and I think most other cyclists would agree that typically anything below 200 bucks, is likely not worth it. That just my advice as a fellow cyclist, offering his time. What you decide to buy, is your choice. Makes no difference to me.
I think I'm willing to spend $200-$300, but probably no more than that. Based on that, any recommendations?
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Old 04-30-19, 11:37 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by vailskier3 View Post
I think I'm willing to spend $200-$300, but probably no more than that. Based on that, any recommendations?
Wheels & Wheelsets Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike

start here. There’s several dozen wheelsets of all types within the 2-300 range. Everything they offer are reliable components. You literally couldn’t go wrong with any of them. Find a set that interests you in that range and go for it. Velomine is a trustworthy company.
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Old 04-30-19, 03:19 PM
  #65  
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Personally, I'd get these:

H + Plus Son Archetype Black Formula Track Bike Wheelset [741170] - $245.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
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Old 04-30-19, 04:39 PM
  #66  
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Something that I'm surprised I haven't seen mentioned yet (Probably because very few people here came from the BMX world), is a half link chain.
You should be fine as there are TONS of conversion kits out on the market now, but one thing that might let you get that perfect gearing, or spare you from buying some crazy derailluer tensioner looking thing is a halflink chain.
It will allow you to pick a chain length at the half link instead of the full link.

One half link:
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Half-Link.../dp/B00288K96C

Full chain:
https://www.danscomp.com/products/46...k_2_Chain.html
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Old 04-30-19, 05:35 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by BicycleBicycle View Post
Something that I'm surprised I haven't seen mentioned yet (Probably because very few people here came from the BMX world), is a half link chain.
You should be fine as there are TONS of conversion kits out on the market now, but one thing that might let you get that perfect gearing, or spare you from buying some crazy derailluer tensioner looking thing is a halflink chain.
It will allow you to pick a chain length at the half link instead of the full link.

One half link:
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Half-Link.../dp/B00288K96C

Full chain:
https://www.danscomp.com/products/46...k_2_Chain.html
Hahaha - so for $33.95 you get a lifetime supply of $3-4 halflinks

55 bucks less & 100+g claimed less weight:
Velocity A23 Track Bike Fixed Gear Singlespeed Wheels DT Comp [741227] - $189.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike

Having said that...

I'm not sure that somebody's discussion about what may or may not make some budget wheelsets worth more or less than others tells you anything unless you tell him, or us, what you need besides "best for the money"...

I looked back in this thread, and maybe I missed it - but I didn't see any mention whether you need, or want, or can fit - wide or narrow rims and rubber on whatever it is you are are doing? Or whether you want lighter and racier, or sturdier wheels?

Have fun - good luck...

Last edited by IAmSam; 04-30-19 at 08:19 PM.
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Old 05-06-19, 09:01 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by IAmSam View Post
Hahaha - so for $33.95 you get a lifetime supply of $3-4 halflinks



55 bucks less & 100+g claimed less weight:
Velocity A23 Track Bike Fixed Gear Singlespeed Wheels DT Comp [741227] - $189.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike

Having said that...

I'm not sure that somebody's discussion about what may or may not make some budget wheelsets worth more or less than others tells you anything unless you tell him, or us, what you need besides "best for the money"...

I looked back in this thread, and maybe I missed it - but I didn't see any mention whether you need, or want, or can fit - wide or narrow rims and rubber on whatever it is you are are doing? Or whether you want lighter and racier, or sturdier wheels?

Have fun - good luck...
My dropouts measure 126mm, so it looks like velomine can take care of that for me. I think I'm gonna go for a classic look, so going with silver wheels and standard tires. Shouldn't bee too much fitment issue unless I'm missing something.
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